Coccidia infects the digestive tract of all chickens. Yes, that’s right, all chickens. A small number of 'familiar' coccidia is typical in a healthy, adult chicken.
The cause of coccidiosis in chickens is exposure to unfamiliar coccidia. Hens or poultry which are unwell can not fight high levels of coccidia infection. Coccidiosis infection in chickens is a problem, and it is a big problem. It spreads rapidly through the flock as can cause death within a couple of days.
If you are a backyard chicken keeper, it is essential to learn how to recognise the signs of coccidiosis in chickens coccidiosis in chickens. If you already know the signs and symptoms, you need to start immediate treatment with Amprolium or Baycox by Bayer
All chickens naturally carry some coccidia in their intestine. The coccidia parasites in small numbers do not cause any symptoms or ill-health. However, signs of coccidiosis that needs treatment include:
Most vulnerable chickens are generally:
Coccidiosis is unlikely to harm an average, healthy, adult chicken unless you introduce a new strain of the parasite into the chicken coop. Your hens build a resistance to the coccidia they live with over time. They have little to no resistance or immunity to newly introduced coccidia strains. It is the primary cause of a coccidiosis outbreak in the coop and is more common than you’d think.
Coccidia varies greatly between sites. So much so that your neighbour most likely has different strains than your coop. It is because of this it is so easy to introduce new coccidia. Even dirty shoes from someone else’s coop are enough. Introducing new birds without treating them first is the number one cause.
Like most intestinal parasites, the spread of coccidiosis is from the eggs (oocysts). These are laid in the gut of the infected host and passed out through their faeces. The life cycle begins again when these eggs are consumed and hatch in the new host’s intestine. The parasite burrows into the gut lining and impairs digestive function as it multiplies as well as actively produces more oocysts.
Chicken and wild bird faeces spread oocysts. So even if you have the most stringent plans in place, a stray wild bird poop can introduce new Oocysts to your flock. They survive for up to a year in warm, wet conditions. Maintaining a clean, dry coop can significantly reduce the exposure your birds have to oocysts.
Coccidiosis outbreaks occur more frequently with:
As “new” coccidia are the leading cause of coccidiosis in healthy chickens, you should be aware of the most common ways they are introduced to your coop. New coccidia can come from:
Practising good chicken coop biosecurity is a must. Once you are in the hang of it, honestly it becomes second nature.
There are two critical ways to helping prevent coccidiosis in chickens.
See the bottom of this article for the best ways to clean and disinfect a chicken coop without chemicals.
Young chicks must be treated to prevent coccidiosis. While some chicken keepers, in particular, organic chicken keepers, may choose not to treat their younger chicks for coccidiosis, doing so is good practice. Two treatment options available:
Usually, poultry and chickens are vaccinated against coccidiosis when commercially purchased. But don't just assume, ask the question before taking them home. This vaccination is effective against most strains of the parasite. Most importantly, vaccinated chicks should never be fed a medicated feed as this will nullify the protective effects of both treatments.
Rather than vaccinate, many backyard chicken keepers raise their chicks on a medicated chick starter. This feed contains a coccidiostat also known as anti-coccidiosis medication. It is not strong enough to completely protect the chicks from the disease but is enough protection to help them build the immunity that exists in an adult chicken. Medicated feed should be fed only to chicks. Administer the treatment for up to 8 weeks. This treatment plan aids in preventing Coccidiosis infection in chickens.
Do not consume eggs from chickens that are being treated with medicated feed.
Good coop management can also help prevent coccidiosis in chickens:
Below zero temperatures, direct exposure to sunlight, also, hot, dry conditions will kill oocysts.
Coccidiosis spreads quickly, and the survival of poultry depends on immediate treatment.
While you should always isolate sick birds immediately to prevent the spread of disease if one bird is sick chances are high that the whole group soon will be.
Treatment for coccidiosis is with sulfa drugs or anticoccidial drugs. Amprolium is an anticoccidial drug available without a prescription and is a fast and highly effective treatment for coccidiosis. Use caution when using Sulfamonaides also know as Sulfas. Sulfa drugs can cause a toxic overdose.
The emergence of drug-resistant strains of coccidia may present a significant problem. New methods currently being trialled to help stop the development of drug resistance in coccidia include changing the type of drugs and the "shuttle program" which is a planned change of the first drug in the middle of the bird's growth period.
Recent Scientific Evidence to Support Apple Cider Vinegar as reported in the Polish Journal of Veterinary Sciences showed evidence supporting Apple Cider Vinegar usage. In short, their findings indicated:
Although this study was limited, further research and investigations continue. But so far, that's an enormous thumbs up for ACV and those backyard chicken keepers who want a more holistic approach and not solely rely on drugs or commercially available medications alone. Read the full study
Helpful Links:
Dine A Chook Expert articles
Keeping Chickens Healthy in Wet weather
Top 6 Ways to prevent disease in the Chicken Coop
How Chicken Drinkers with lubing cups help prevent contamination
]]>Also, read our related article of the Top 6 Ways to Prevent Disease in the Chicken Coop
Chicken feathers are somewhat waterproof. Being feathered helps insulate them, so letting them out is fine. However New Zealand winters can be bitterly cold, so if it is rainy and less than 15 degrees, probably best to keep them warm and dry. Letting your birds out prevents overcrowding and boredom. It also helps prevent the illnesses that come from having a damp or wet coop. Not all hens appreciate going out. Generally, if it is raining too much for them, they shall seek shelter themselves.
Remember, chickens do become easily chilled, so don’t let them out if it is cold or windy. And don’t let chickens like silkies (their feathers aren’t waterproof), younger birds or sick birds out in the rain.
Chickens get sick after rain generally as it causes wet, soggy or muddy conditions. Add warmish temperatures, and you get these problems:
The short answer is a wet chicken coop. Mould and Fungi need two things to grow. Moisture and food. Building materials, timber walls and floors, high gloss or painted metal sheeting, wet or soggy bedding and litter are the perfect food source. For some reason, mould and fungi prefer high gloss painted surfaces. It is likely due to the Linseed oil in the paint. Using synthetic paint should help resolve this. Where you can help the most for the coop is keeping it dry and ventilated.
A wet, muddy chicken coop can last for days after the rain has stopped. However, a muddy run is bad for chickens for three main reasons:
While you can not stop the rain, you can help fix muddy puddles or a muddy run. Ensure the chicken run is in a high, well-drained position where possible. If it is shaded too much, trim trees, so the hens have shady spots throughout the day but there is still enough sunlight to help dry out the ground after rain. Also, if muddy puddles do appear, fill them with soil.
While the weather is beyond our control, here are six things you can do to avoid the illness and disease in the chicken coop.
1. Let your birds out as soon as possible after a downpour. Now you can clean the coop.
2. Ensure adequate ventilation in the coop. At the same time ensure the protect hens from cold winds and rain
3. Regularly keep the chicken coop clean and dry. Periodically spot clean as well as top up with fresh, dry bedding.
4. Remove soiled bedding with mould or fungal growth
5. Provide a dry dust bath if space permits
6. Clean the coop thoroughly as soon as it is dry. If the rain is ongoing, you may have to don a raincoat and clean it out during the shower sorry.
The final trick in wet weather is to be on the lookout for the first signs of illness. Do not ignore symptoms of lethargy or diarrhea. Wet weather does not cause this behaviour. Isolate the affected hen, clean the coop thoroughly, formulate a diagnosis and treat accordingly.
]]>So many of you may read this and think this is so obvious. But one of the biggest reasons disease spreads throughout a Chicken Pen or Coop is the lack of cleanliness. It is because of this very reason we list it as number one in our Top 6 Ways to Prevent Disease in Chicken Coop. Poultry parasites and diseases spread through faeces. Mites as well as lice lay eggs around the chicken coop and also in the bedding. Therefore the cleaner the pen is, the better.
With ingredients you would generally have in the home, you can make a natural cleaning solution safe for your chicken. Apple cider vinegar cleans with no harmful VOC's or toxic chemicals. It can be used safely around chickens, laying hens and poultry. It is also ideal for people who suffer an allergy from chemical cleaners. Plus it leaves a pleasant, fresh fragrance.
Add 35ml of either white vinegar or apple cider vinegar with 450ml of Water in a spray bottle. Then merely spray on surfaces and wipe off with a damp rag or micro fibre cloth.
In a 2lt sprayer combine 60ml of baking soda with water. Add 150ml of white or apple cider vinegar. Mix and then top with water.
For areas on the floor where droppings have become a little stubborn. Just allow time to soften by wetting first. Then using a paste of baking soda and water, scrub with a nylon or hard bristle scrubbing brush and this clean up quickly.
How to Keep a Chicken Coop Clean:
Illness in chickens is often brought on by stress. It is also the effect of parasite and disease. Poor environmental conditions often increase illness. Something as simple as avoiding environmental stresses can make a massive difference to a chicken’s resistance to illness.
To avoid environmental stresses:
Healthy chickens are far more resistant to diseases and parasites. To help Optimise the health of your birds:
A health management program may sound complicated, but preventing illness in the first place is far more effective, and simpler, than treating it after the fact.
Many chicks bought commercially will be vaccinated for this common disease. If you are buying your chicken from a reputable supplier, ask them to verify whether your chicken has been vaccinated. You can treat an infected hen with Coccidiosis using medicated feeds from your supplier. It should be noted, medicated feed should not be fed to laying hens.
Treat chickens for mites and lice at least twice a year, in addition to treating the pen with an insecticide (see above).
Use Rotenone dust on chickens as an external treatment. Also, Internal parasite controls are available, speak to your local Poultry feed Supplier or Pet Store.
There are various sources of diseases and parasites that infect chickens:
It is good practice to isolate new birds for a period of up to two weeks, watching them carefully for signs of illness, before introducing them to your flock.
Illness spreads rapidly amongst chickens. It is essential to monitor your birds carefully and remove any bird showing signs of disease as quickly as possible. This helps to prevent the infection of others. Removing sick chickens also gives them a better chance of recovery, and stops other birds from picking on them.
Once the bird has been isolated, ensure it is well-hydrated and warm. If it is not eating or drinking, use a spoon or dropper to give it water fortified with an electrolyte solution such as AviLYTE until it is recovered enough to drink on its own.
If you are treating a bird for a communicable illness, it is usually advisable to treat the whole flock. Ultimately, even if only one bird is showing signs of illness, chances are that the whole flock has been infected and it is only a matter of time until they too fall ill. This is particularly the case with internal parasites such as worms.
So those are our Top 6 Ways Preventing Disease in Chicken Coop. If you have any further questions or would like to more about the treatments or products mentioned in the article, please contact our support team.
For other great tips on raising healthy, happy backyard chickens visit our Learning Blog.
]]>A Chicken moults on average once per year. Moulting is a natural cycle. Chickens lose their old feathers to make way for new ones. During this time it is like a vacation period for laying eggs and may take several weeks.
Older Chickens may take longer and moult more often. These older hens eventually get to a point where egg laying completely stops. This is especially so for commercial layers. We should, however, be kind to them and still treat them with love. After all, they have given us years of beautiful eggs.
Another point which could cause slowing in egg supply is how much daylight your hens are getting. Winter months have shorter days. The hormones in laying hens use sunlight as a trigger. A laying hen requires around 14 hours of daylight to maintain good egg production. In the case of backyard chickens, sunlight is the most common source. It is normal to see a decline in egg production during Autumn and also Winter. As Spring sets in, production returns typically in full swing.
If you want your girls to lay eggs during cooler months with shorter days, then you will need to provide additional lighting. One option is a solar powered shed light on a timer. This will allow the hens to receive a few extra hours of light prior to sunrise. A warm spectrum fluorescent bulb works best.
But what if it isn't Moulting. Do you have younger birds with plenty of daylight in the Middle of Summer?
Here are some other Reasons why Chickens are not laying.
This is a rather common occurrence. You go to the effort of a lovely nesting box, and it simply is not used. Instead, the hens find their own special place. This could be a plant pot or a dark little posy in behind the garden shed. This assumes here that your girls are free ranging. If this is the case, go on an egg hunt, and you may find the eggs.
If they are secure in a chicken coop, then this won’t be the case. Have you considered a predator could be stealing the eggs. Also, they may be laying eggs but have developed a taste for them and are eating them.
Sadly, this is relatively common. And while we hate to get to involved with the discussion of what chicken keepers feed their chooks, we see an ever-increasing number of people feeding their chooks masses of scraps like canned tuna. You need to understand the nutritional requirements of a laying hen. We have a great article on What is the Best Diet for Chickens
Feed companies continually improve feed based on what a bird requires to be optimally healthy. When you alternate the food source, you dilute the nutritional intake that laying hens need to remain productive.
As far as backyard poultry goes, you are better to buy the best quality complete feed you can afford. Supplement this feed with a mineral supplement or Dried Meal Worms. If you would like to feed your girls greens, grow them fresh in your garden. Go organic so it's naturally free from herbicides and pesticides. Health Problems are certainly Number One in our Top 4 Reasons Why Chickens are Not Laying.
Other things which you could consider under Chicken Health Problems are:
Bacteria or Viruses
Common Causes – Fowl Pox, Newcastle disease, Mycoplasmosis, Infectious Coryza, Infectious bronchitis.
Less Common Causes – Avian encephalomyelitis
Rare Causes – Avian influenza, Fowl cholera
Parasites
Common Causes – Poultry mites and lice
Less Common Causes – Coccidiosis, Heavy infestations with roundworms, threadworms or tapeworms.
Rare Causes – Fleas
Physical examination
Don’t be afraid to pick your chooks up and get to know them. Also, be mindful to listen out for any unusual noises sneezing or coughing which could be early signs of respiratory disease. Discharge from the nostrils or weeping from their eyes is also a sign of illness and should be addressed as soon as possible.
Pay close attention to any scabs on their face which could be a sign of fowlpox
It's is both common and avoidable. Poor flock management. You should insulate Chicken coops in the walls and ceiling. Heat Stress is a significant factor that stops chickens laying eggs. It takes a lot of work and hydration to lay an egg. An egg consists of up to 90% water. This does not include the hydration the hen requires to produce it. Limited or running out of fresh water shuts down production. By using Dine A Chook Chicken Drinkers, you can ensure your birds get clean water on demand. Water should be free of contaminants such as dirt, and algae and a complete feed should be available always. Hens should never be feed periodically or only at certain times of the day. Ensure that both feed and water are available at all times throughout the day.
Overcrowding is more common than it should be. If you don’t have space, keep a couple of hens. Be mindful of buying a small chicken coop and keeping too many birds in it.
Don't allow feed to become wet or even just damp as mouldy feed can be a significant issue. Our Automatic PVC Chicken Feeders are designed to keep your feed high and dry even in torrential rain.
A relaxed hen is much more likely to lay an egg as opposed to a hen that is under stress. Imagine the pressure that you would be under if you could not find fresh food or more so if you couldn’t find clean water. This is such an obvious consideration, and this is why thousands of customers have invested in our feeders and waterers. It is vital that you ensure that your birds always have access to fresh water and feed. There are many reasons why poorly designed feeders and drinkers fail. Generally, it comes down to spillage and spoiling of water. We hear this problem a lot from customers that have purchased imported treadle feeders.
Treadle feeders have mechanical moving components. Cheap treadle feeders use cheap parts in the manufacture process. This can cause the lid to remain open causing exposure to weather. It can also attract rodents as well as pest birds. Once pest birds learn where the feed is, they fly in once the chooks open the lid and often don't make it back out before the lid closes. You can only guess what happens to that bird now.
We hope our Top 4 Reasons Why Chickens Not Laying has been of help to you. If there is a topic you would like us to write about send us an email via the Contact us page.
]]>1 - 2 nights away your chickens will need:
If you can provide enough food, water and also weather protection, your chickens can be perfectly fine locked in their coop. However, it is important to remember:
These are some of the things to consider when you think of Caring for Chickens when you go away.
So can you leave your chooks without supervision? You need a chicken sitter if:
If you do need a pet sitter, remember that chickens are not like dogs or cats. The most attention they will need, even if you are away for a few weeks, is a quick morning and also evening visit. And chickens are even kind enough to provide their payment for pet sitting, in the form of lovely, fresh eggs.
Extreme weather can kill chickens. It is that simple. So if you are planning a day or more away and there is severe weather predicted you would need a pet sitter. New Zealand weather can change quickly. These are things to consider for your chickens to help them survive without being in your bed.
Heatwaves and Hot weather
Extreme Cold and Freezing Winds
Having lived on the South Island during a minus 19-degree winter, the cold in Central Otago can rewrite the very definition of cold. Thanks to their feathers and huddling together, chickens are much better at surviving cold events than hot ones. But here are some tips to help them through.
By following these guidelines, you can Caring for chickens on your weekend away and know that your chickens will be perfectly fine.
Water is always the biggest concern. Dehydration can happen quickly in the hot New Zealand summer. Even when you are at home dehydration is a risk in high temperatures. At a minimum, birds should have access to 500ml of clean, fresh water per day. In hot weather, closer to a litre may be needed. Whichever Chicken waterer option you use, ensure there is adequate water at all times. Remember Cold winds and extreme cold weather also can lead to dehydration.
Open Drinking Containers
Avoid using open containers as a waterer for Chickens. They can cross-contaminate drinking water with chicken faeces. Also, they can topple over leaving the hens with no water.
Chicken Drinkers
Our chicken drinkers come in a variety of sizes. Just make sure you have enough water to last an extra day. If not then you should have an additional drinker. You can make a large drinker using Dine A Chook DIY parts and a 40-gallon drum. Our 20 Litre Drum Drinker contains enough water to keep ten birds happy for four days (at 500 ml/day each).
Automatic Mains Pressure Drinkers
If you have a garden hose or tap in your chicken coop, you may want to invest in an automatic drinker. Once it is set up, your birds will have clean, fresh water, straight from the tap. Also, you will never have to worry about dehydration again.
Because hydration is critical to Laying Hens, having access to water from a Chicken Waterer is top on our list of Caring for Chickens when you go away.
Chickens should not be left unlocked at night. Even if you have never had signs of a predator, they are simply defenceless if left open. If you have time to plan before you go away, consider the points in our article on Protecting your chickens from Predators.
One solution to the security issue is an automatic chicken coop door, also known as an auto door. These generally are run by battery or solar. For more information on these, we suggest you make contact with your local Chicken Breeder or Farming Supplier.
Ensure chickens have access to 120g - 150g of feed per bird, per day. Entirely equip your chicken coop before your holiday with Professional Dine A Chook NZ Chicken Feeder and Drinker Kits
Cooped up chickens are physically okay, but they get bored. And boredom = trouble. They might not rip up your cushions or chew your shoes, but chickens will pick on and peck each other. It may only be a few days, but providing your chickens with some amusement while you’re gone can help if they’re not going to be able to free-range.
You could consider:
And if you have enough room, making sure birds have a good-sized dust bath will also amuse – a kid’s paddling pool (the hard plastic kind) filled with sand is perfect.
An extra couple layers of bedding on the chicken coop floor is also a great addition if you are going to be away. It keeps the coop that little bit cleaner, and gives your birds yet another thing to peck at that isn’t each other.
Any chicken keeper knows that things don't always go as planned. Caring for chickens on your weekend away doesn't have to be a major problem. A little planning as well as considering the important things will allow you more time to enjoy yourself.
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]]>There are two important things to keep when buying a chicken. The type of chicken as well as the health of the chicken. Some chickens lay more eggs, some are for meat, some are great pets but lay no eggs. If you are buying a chicken for backyard eggs, then ask around first about the best breed for your area which produces good egg output.
There are a lot of different places with backyard chickens for sale. How do you choose one? Here are our top 4 places to get chickens in New Zealand.
New Zealand Poultry Clubs are some of the safest places to buy chickens. Their members take their backyard farming and also reputation in the industry very seriously. Many members in the varied Local New Zealand Poultry Clubs are also reliable and proud chicken and poultry breeders. So your birds will be healthy. Often they are also vaccinated against some of the more common chicken diseases.
Here are a few we would recommend as your first point of contact:
New Zealand Poultry Associations Incorporated
Another excellent starting point is Rare Breeds Society. They have contact details for reputable chicken breeders through the North and South Islands. Rare Breeds New Zealand
Also, sizeable rural feed stores may take orders for point-of-lay hens and pullets as well as full-grown laying hens. Many stores also offer day-old chicks by mail order. There is nothing cuter than a box of chicks. As a parent the idea of little fluffy chicks for your children is exciting. But it is important to realise raising them requires different facilities. Another key point is raising chicks takes a lot more knowledge and also effort than keeping older chickens. Chicks aren’t always sexed, which also means you may end up with a box of roosters!
Poultry breeders are a great place to get chickens. Thanks to the internet, breeders can be found online selling chickens. They also sell directly to the public at bird shows and similar. However, there are as many amateurs as professionals. To ensure you are getting quality birds, always buy from a reputable breeder. Perhaps you have a friend who has purchased from the breeder.
We suggest a few such as:
If you have purchased from a local New Zealand breeder and are happy with the quality of the Chickens or Pullets you bought, contact us as we would like in the future to create a local directory for the whole on NZ, so we have every area covered.
Most reputable online breeders of backyard chickens will proudly display testimonials or reviews. If someone has a chicken for sale but will not let you see their flock to ensure that they are healthy and happy, walk away. Passionate breeders produce healthy birds and are usually eager to share what they are doing with new chicken keepers. Breeders are also great resources if you want to get into keeping heritage and rare breed chickens.
Everything from fertilised eggs, day-old chicks and chicks, to pullets and point-of-lay hens, are available online and through the local classifieds. Trademe NZ Online is a particularly good place to get mature hens, as people will often buy chickens and then have to sell them due to a change of circumstances. These chickens may be slightly older, but you can usually get an excellent deal on a chicken coop or tractor from someone eager to off-load them. It is best to collect your chickens from wherever they were raised. This way you can ensure that they are healthy. You can also see where they were grown and in what conditions. Choose your chickens carefully, as not all online vendors give you precisely what you ask for.
If you are getting chickens primarily for pets, rather than eggs, you may wish to support a hen rescue program. Battery Hen and Rescue Rehoming is one such organisation which re-homes ex-battery hens. Battery hens are egg layers that are kept in tiny cages and usually have not been outdoors. They are killed at 2 or 3 years old, after their peak egg-laying years are over. That said, hens can continue laying for up to 5 years after this point and may live even longer. If you are adopting battery hens, you will be giving an animal that has been abused a natural and happy end to their life. However, be aware that ex-battery hens may not be as robust as other chickens, will not lay as reliably, and may have some health issues due to their long confinement.
Do you have more questions about buying chickens? Visit our Chook School to find out what is the best age to get a chicken, how to raise chicks and what you need to keep your chickens happy and healthy.
]]>One of our customers recently told us that she had lost one of her flock. The bird had vanished without a trace. She had checked all fences and found no apparent way for the chook to break out of the run. After convincing herself the chicken was the victim of a hawk she came into our store after Bird Netting to predator-proof the chicken run.
After going to the effort of adding the extra measures, she came back into the store to update us advising she had seen the missing, presumed dead chook. She saw it frantically running down the yard squawking and scattering other birds aside. It got to the Chicken feeder, ate in a frenzy and was gone again in less than a minute. No, she was not hallucinating; this was the bird she thought had been taken.
Anyone backyard chicken keeper who has chickens that sit on eggs will be familiar with the starving hen routine. This customer's chicken had not been eaten. She was broody.
The cause of Broodiness in chickens is varied. Warm weather in New Zealand can contribute to the chooks going crazy. All of a sudden all the locals have broody hens. Once one hen starts sitting on eggs, it seems like they all want to. So how can you catch a broody hen before it goes MIA?
The first sign of broodiness at our house is egg production decreases. This does not mean they are not laying. It just means they are no longer laying in their nesting box. Without any particular reason, the hens find their nesting boxes too public so they find somewhere more secluded. This may be under a bush in the garden or a clump of grass. You might also look behind the chook pen as well as under it if height allows them access. Interestingly, if one hen decides they’ve found a right spot to lay an egg, they all want in on the change of scenery.
Other signs of a Broody Chicken include spending ages in the nesting boxes, as well as building nests in dark, secluded spots. A sure sign is if the chooks start spending the night in their nest, wherever it is, rather than roosting with the rest of the flock. Now is the time to take action.
Broodiness is not linked to a particular breed more than another. However, most white egg breeds seldom go broody. Broodiness does have a link especially for backyard chicken keepers who keep larger, heavier breeds of chickens for their brown eggs. In the South Island of New Zealand there are a number of backyard chicken keepers with larger breeds due to the cold winter climate, so if you know someone with larger hens, share this story with them on Facebook or Instagram. The three factors involved in broodiness are the environment, the chicken itself and also the chicken's hormones.
If you want the addition of chicks, then Broody hens are great news. Our customer chose to let her leghorn sit. There are however pitfalls of having Broody Chooks:
I’ve even read about hens sitting on golf balls as well as rocks. It takes twenty-one days to hatch a chicken egg. Despite this, a broody hen will not stop sitting even on day twenty-two. The chicken fails to notice the egg is not fertile and interestingly keep sitting.
Extended time on the nest means broody hens are not eating or drinking adequately. They are also avoiding dust bathing as well as generally taking care of themselves. They are sacrificing their health for the needs of their eggs. So if you do not want chick hatching, it is better not to allow hens to sit for extended periods. Some hens are so broody they choose not to eat for a day causing them to lose their condition quickly.
Not all chickens make good mothers so just because a chicken seems determined to be broody does not mean that it will see it through. Some abandon the nest before the 21 days are up. Some may harm their chicks although this is usually unintentionally. If you are going to let a hen sit, choose the bird carefully. If you choose poorly, you can end up with a lot of work on your hands.
If you want to expand your flock with some chicks, having a broody hen is excellent news.
However, if you don't wish to have chicks you shall need to 'break' your broody hen, this means to stop her being broody as soon as possible. But if not, it is best to “break” your broody hen. The mission should you choose to accept it is to stop her from being broody, as soon as possible.
The less time a hen has spent sitting, the easier it is to convince her to give up the nest and return to normal flock life. It is better for the chicken’s health, prevents the broodiness spreading, and also means egg production generally returns to normal. Breaking broody hens - it's not as brutal as it sounds
There are loads of ways to break a broody hen, and everybody has a favourite. The first step in any method, of course, is to take away the eggs! The favourite way of most chicken keepers that I know is the BBB - the broody-breaking box.
Cooling a hen's body temperature can help convince them they are not broody, as the heat is essential for the eggs. There are many ways to do this, some kinder than others. Some people bathe their birds in cool water on a warm day. Others suggest placing ice cubes or frozen water bottles in the nest.
Increasing a bird's activity also help decrease the hormones that make them broody. The lock-out method relies on this. You can also use the boomerang method but take the hen as far as possible from the coop so there is lots of activity as well as distractions before they get back to their nest.
Probably the kindest as well as the most reliable method of breaking a broody hen. The idea relies on placing the hen somewhere that they can’t nest. You could use hospital pens or a bird cages. The containment box should be raised and have a wire floor so that air can pass underneath and cool the hen. Ensure the wire floor is thick enough that it doesn’t damage the hen’s feet. There should be no nesting material as well as no dark corners. Provide food and also ensure adequate water. Even add a roost if you like. After a couple of days, let the hen out. They should re-join the flock, but if they’ve been broody for a while or have extra strong instincts, they may go back to the nest, in which case leave them in the box for a bit longer.
If you have a topic you would like us to write about, send us your ideas through the contact us page of our website.
]]>While there are some considerations that need to be taken into account, the short answer is Yes, you can keep ducks and geese with chickens. You must however ensure you cater to the different needs of the birds as well as provide ample space. By doing so your mixed flock of ducks, geese and chickens should get along very nicely.
To help avoid potential problems you should consider the below before you add ducks and geese to your chicken coop:
Ducks and geese will eat layer pellets, they do best on Waterfowl feed. Medicated feed is not suitable and should not be used with Ducks or Geese. Ducklings and goslings need extra niacin and cannot live on chicken starter feed.
Waterfowl such as Ducks and Geese prefer to nest on the ground. They can sleep on the floor of the chicken coop but generally ducks and geese prefer to sleep outdoors. If you have a safely enclosed run, try a separate housing for the Ducks and Geese which allows them to go in and out at night.
Ducks, geese and chickens tend to co-exist quite peacefully once a pecking order is established. However, in confined quarters, there can be ongoing conflict and there are stories of larger waterfowl harassing chickens to death. Allow enough room for the different flocks to avoid each other during the day, including a few areas where smaller birds can escape larger ones.
The key to keeping male birds content and happy in a mixed flock is having enough females of their own species. Usually eight hens per rooster and at least two ducks per drake. Having enough females is particularly important with ducks, because in breeding season an “unsatisfied” drake may try to mate with the chickens, causing injury and possibly death.
Waterfowl will splash and play in any water they can find, even a drinker cup! This creates mess and damp, which aren’t great for chickens. Nipple drinkers are better but waterfowl must also have enough water to fully immerse their heads in order to remain healthy.
Geese are great guard dogs and keeping them with your chickens will provide a warning system if predators are about. But guard geese are more dedicated to a flock they’ve bonded with, so if that’s your goal get one goose and raise it with your chickens.
If you have any other tips for the question of Can I keep Ducks and Geese with Chickens? Please contact us so we may consider adding them to this article to help other backyard Duck and Chicken Keepers.
Regards
Rachel at Dine A Chook
]]>When asking the question, "What is the best diet for chickens?", We should start by considering what is not. The general diet for most backyard chickens is a grain and seed mix combined with leftovers of kitchen scraps as well as garden waste. It may seem like a natural diet but is not recommended for the health and well-being of laying hens.
Laying hens need a high protein diet as well as proper hydration for healthy egg production. As a rule, the majority of bright coloured seed and grain mixes available at most pet stores do not have the required protein for laying hens. Such a diet can reduce the quality of the eggs as well as the volume quantity produced. Also, with mixed feeds such as seed and grain mix, hens pick out what they like and leave the rest discarded. So their diet is unlikely to meet even their dietary requirements.
Let's be very clear here. Chickens can have kitchen scraps and garden waste. Chickens and Layers can be given a seed and grain mix. But, these food sources should be used as treats one or two times a week. Also, because these are generally hand feed to chickens or sprinkled on the coop floor, only give the chickens enough that they can eat it all within 15 minutes. Any more than this shall likely remain on the floor and be an attraction to rodents at night. The best time to feed scraps like this is at lunchtime.
Limiting garden waste and kitchen scraps will not only ensure that laying hens are getting the balanced nutrition that they require, but it may also help to control rodents in the chicken coop by removing a readily available food source in the form of rotting scraps.
The best diet for chickens is a pellet mix. While it looks bland, it is formulated to provide the required protein for your hens. If you wish to supplement the protein, a great healthy treat for chickens is Dried Mealworms. Due to the dry nature of a pellet mix, always ensure your chickens have adequate water at all times. You can provide sufficient water all the time using a Dine A Chook Chicken Drinker System. The water is not only essential for their digestion of the feed but also the chickens use the water to help soften the pellets when eating and swallowing.
If you want organic eggs, visit your Chicken Feed Supplier and ask them about their range of Organic Chicken pellet mix. Homegrown Organics eggs simply come down to the feed which the chicken consumes.
Lubing Cups are a water-delivery system for Chicken and Poultry drinkers. It is designed with a special valve float. When depressed by the hen, water from the Chicken drinker flows into the cup. Lubing cups are purposefully made for poultry hydration. The float valve helps stop spillage by providing water on-demand. Most birds use it without any training. Lubing Drinker Cups help prevent contamination of the drinking water. They also avoid wet litter, and may also help to deter pests such as rodents.
The additional free bonus of purchasing a Dine A Chook Chicken waterer is that the float valve has been upgraded by Dine A Chook. Our upgraded patented float allows more water to be released. Being larger it is also easier for chickens to press.
The German company Lubing is the world leader in hydration systems for poultry farmers and breeders. Their professional drinker cups are made for long-term as well as high-volume use.
As Poultry Feeder and Drinker manufacturers ourselves, we experimented with a range of drinker outlets. After our testing we can confidently say the drip-free outlet and also the contamination-minimising design, make Lubing the number one choice. It is perfect for professional as well as backyard chicken keepers alike. Lubing Cups are engineered and manufactured in Germany to the highest standards.
The two main forms of water delivery for poultry are chicken drinking cups and nipples. They both are effective ways to prevent water spillage, drips and mess. They are also equally both effective in preventing contamination of the drinking water.
Drinker Cups have a small amount of water that hens and other poultry can insert their beaks to drink. They 'naturally' release more water by way of pressing the float valve. Many backyard chicken keepers prefer this more "natural" delivery system.
Nipples have special tips which release water when pressed. They are the preferred choice in commercial and large-scale chicken farming operations. The majority of commercial systems have a drip tray to prevent wetting the litter. Nipple Drinkers are also a good option for waterfowl such as ducks, as they prevent splashing of water which leads to a mess throughout the pen.
If you use a Nipple Drinker with ducks, you shall still need a wet location where they can fully immerse their head and beak as well. This could be a pond or even an additional bucket of water. You should try however to keep this wet location away from feed areas.
Depending on the size of the duck beak, your duck may be able to happily use a Drinking cup. However as ducks love splashing water around, some of our customers prefer Dine A Chook Nipple Drinkers.
Our customers have reported success with: chickens, bantams, turkeys, guinea fowl, peacocks, ducks and also waterfowl such as ducks.
Lubing Drinker Cups are designed to be leak and also drip free.
If the drinker begins to leak, this can be caused by contamination or calcification of the valve in the cup. The build-up of sediment over time is inevitable. To stop the leak, follow the maintenance instructions below in Section 10 of this page.
Our Dine A Chook engineers have experimented and examined conventional lubing cups, and we found a flaw. After some redesigning and moulding, we designed a patented Dine a Chook float to fit the Lubing Drinker Cups. Our float allows more water into the cup, meaning higher resting water levels.
To ensure adequate access to water, we recommend one Drinker Cup for every six chickens. For Automatic Chicken Waterers, you may be able to have one Lubing Cup per 8 birds.
Keeping your Lubing Drinker Cups clean is easy. Just give them a hose out when you are topping up the Dine A Chook Chicken Drinker. This is enough to keep the cup clean. We also recommend giving them a deep clean every couple of months to ensure they keep working in the long-run. Dine A Chook recommends thorough maintenance (see Section 10 below) every few months. With little maintenance, these chicken drinking cups will still look amazing after years of hydrating your hens.
To maintain your Drinker Cups, we recommend doing a deep clean every few months. To do this, remove the nipple valve as shown below and wash in warm, soapy water. Rinse well and reassemble. Ensure you clip the valve back in correctly and spin it gently with two fingers to ensure it is moving freely.
If you wish to really service your Drinking Cup, you can completely disassemble it, as pictured below, and then follow the instructions above to clean it. When reassembling the cup, take special care that the lugs align when reattaching the red cup to the main, yellow body. Also, ensure that the top, stainless steel valve has clipped back into place.
If you have any issues with cleaning your Drinker Cup or reassembling it get in touch, it's our pleasure to help you.
If you would like to learn more about Backyard Chicken Keeping, visit our free information articles in our Chook School.
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